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[for note in margin see page 3]
Alice Springs.
Ap 26.1901
My dear Fison,
Just a line to say that we are once more in our old hunting ground. After a journey made somewhat tedious by flies, heat, sand and other discomforts – the first being preeminently the chief – we reached here last Monday evening. If my recollection of childhood serve me aright the Egyptian of old were treated to a plague of flies and many a time & oft during the past month have those ancient sinners had my sincere sympathy. Possibly they deserved the infliction but what two simple minded ethnologists - let alone their poor horses - should be treated in this way is more than I can realise.
Any how I have had a severe & possibly a wholesome chastening together with four bung eyes. The only relief one has is that in this part of the world language does not count - there is no one whom you can possibly demoralize in that respect and for days we travelled surrounded I fear by a bluish haze.
However here we are in the heart of the Macdonnells where the cold nights - it was down to 32 degrees in camp last night - are killing off the brutes in millions.
We have had all of our time fully occupied working at one thing and another from before sunrise to late at night.
So far I am most intent on getting phonograph & cinematograph records. The former we finished off at the Charlotte & sent back to Adelaide for safe keeping. The latter I did some of them and am starting to work at it here today when we are to have a corrobboree [sic]. I dare not take the instrument further north & after all the records we can get amongst these natives will answer our purpose very well as all ceremonies are much alike in principle. Unfortunately the sacred ones which are the best are the least showy.
Last night after dark the natives came to us and told us that they were going to initiate two young men & wanted us to come. Accordingly we rolled up our rugs and went off. It was a mysterious kind of procession as we walked in
single file & silence through the hills to their camp. The night was spent by them dancing & yelling & singing round their fire and performing sacred ceremonies for the benefit of the novices. Just before sunrise they performed one and then at the base of the nurtunja (which will henceforth reside in the Museum) they performed the operation of subincision.
It was a ghastly sight which I shall not trouble to see again. If only one could get to the bottom of the meaning of this initiation one would find the key to a good deal but it seems hopeless for us to do so & I am afraid that it is buried in the far away misty days of the Alcheringa.
If you should feel 'so disposed' write me a line here as it will reach me sooner or later & letters are welcome.
[continues as side note on page 1]
We are in first rate health – I have gained nearly a stone since leaving Melbourne & its worries & we are hopeful of doing some really good work. Kind regards to Howitt as I shant probably have time to write to him this mail. I hope you keep well.
Yours very sincerely
W Baldwin Spencer
